Tag: curl

Curly Hair 103 – Product Review (Masks & Scrub)

So if you have curly hair, scratch that, honestly if you have hair then you realize that there are times that your scalp needs a little extra TLC or that your hair strands are a little less than ideal. Sometimes you may need a little extra protein and other times you just need some moisture (especially when it is 105 and less than 20% humidity). Then there are times where your product build up leaves you with flakes, itchiness, and even irritation and fall out. So what do you do?

About six months ago, I took the plunge and tried out a raved about line of products from Rawkyn – the clay hair mask (aka RED), the green tea hair mask (aka Green), and the detoxifying scalp scrub (aka Gold). The only product that I have yet to try is their deep treatment mask (aka Vanilla). These are all purchased directly from Rawkyn and arrived to me in less than a week (please do not order from non-vendor sites like Amazon as they are not official distributors yet). Below are overviews, application techniques, and reviews on each item for my 3a/3b type hair in hopes they may help you as well!

Disclaimer: I am not paid for this review nor am I receiving any non-monetary incentives. The pictures below are stock photos from the company’s website.

The RED clay mask is the most popular item from Rawkyn. At first, I was very skeptical to try this because clay is historically drying for my hair but with the multitude of other ingredients, like murumuru butter, chamomile, coconut oil, and sage, I wanted to give it a try. Now, this is not for protein sensitive individuals as this does contain protein (coconut oil) but is significantly less than their other hair masks. This is currently sold for $26.99 for 8oz.

I applied this to my hair after cleansing and when it was fully dry. You can apply this before washing too but with product build-up and oil build-up, I wanted to give this a try on fully fresh hair. I used the equivalent of about 2 tbsp for my entire hair because a little really goes go a long way. I started off by leaving this on for 20 minutes (eventually I increased to 30 on my second trial) before rinsing out. I did use my heat cap as well with a shower cap in between as this red clay is very pigmented (I thought my hair would be a strawberry color when I was done). After 20 minutes, I rinsed it out in the shower until the water ran clear (this took about 3-5 minutes to make sure everything came out). I then applied my normal products.

Overall, I liked this mask a lot. I did notice that it detoxed my hair a bit but did not leave it dry. It was very soft after rinsing out the mask. The color is very pigmented though so it did stain my towel a bit so make sure to really rinse everything out. It also helped my hair not need as much moisturizing product after rinsing. I have used this a couple of times now and there has been very positive outcomes though I would recommend this every other week and not weekly for 3a hair as it is an intense moisturizer and can weigh the hair down a bit.

The GREEN mask is the most protein enriched mask in the Rawkyn line. This is still moisturizing, like the RED mask but the emphasis is on protein to help rejuvenate lifeless or dull locks. This product is also good for sensitive skin users because of its plant-based proteins and lack of added fragrances (it is naturally fragrant). The natural ingredients in the mask do get darker in pigment as the mask is oxygenated, but it does not change the benefits in the mask. It is currently on sale for $27.99 for 8oz.

Just like its RED counterpart, I applied this mask after washing my hair and once it was dry. It is not recommended to apply this mask on anything other than freshly washed/dried hair because of its protein penetrating ingredients. Now I am naturally protein-sensitive so I opted to keep this masks on for only 10 minutes, but you can leave it up to 30 though the most commonly time frame is 20 minutes. I applied about 2 tbsp worth to my whole hair, put on the shower cap, and my heat cap. I then rinsed thoroughly after the 10 minutes were up until the water ran clear (it starts off a brownish-green). Do not shampoo/condition after rinsing it out.

Being protein sensitive, I do not use this mask regularly. In fact if you opened my jar right now, it would look almost new but slightly darker than a new jar. I apply this once a month or so when I notice that my curl pattern is weak or my hair is starting to lose luster or shed more than normal. It left my hair very hydrated and soft. The first time I applied too much and my curls were a bit stretched (you have to find a happy point as every curl is different) but subsequent times were more beneficial. I noticed that after applying significantly less product after rinsing and refreshing on day 2, my hair was actually a tighter curl than normal looking more 3b/3c.

This GOLD scalp scrub is amazing! By far, this my favorite product especially when my scalp is extra dry or if I have product build up. A little goes a long way as it contains ingredients like apple cider vinegar, grape seed oil, green tea leaf extract, apple fruit aromatic extract, and exfoliates. Be careful if you have sensitive skin, however, as it does contain acids (apple cider vinegar) and added fragrances. It comes in a 6oz jar for $20.99

Applied to dry uncleaned hair, this is the easiest product from Rawkyn to apply! It is meant to really clean without stripping your hair or leaving it greasy/oil. I part my hair in sections, scoop a dollop, and apply directly to my scalp where I run it in through circular motions. I then apply to the remaining sections and eventually smooth whatever remains on my hands through the length of the hair before massages the whole head for another 2-3 minutes (usually with my scalp massage device). Once it sits for another 15-30 minutes, I rinse it out with warm water before shampooing.

Once you rinse this off, you can actually feel your scalp breathe as silly as that may sound. I use this almost weekly for my wash days because of how effective it is without having to dry out my hair completely. The apple cider is not extremely potent and the smell does not remain on your hair once it is rinsed out. There are little sugar exfoliates that help slough off the dead skin, product, and invigorate your scalp which also aides in growth!

I have not yet tried the Vanilla product as that is only available in small quantities throughout the year but is a lighter GREEN mask in that it is a protein-enriched product. Once I work through the GREEN mask and the Vanilla goes on sale, I will update you all with that information as well.


Overall, these are great products but I am a repeat users of the scrub without a doubt! They are natural products that pack quite a punch. Yes, they are a bit expensive but with the amount you use, it is worth it! In fact, my husband even uses these now for his 3c/4a hair and he sings their praises as well!

Do you have any products that you are using that I should give a try? Are you going to try any of the items mentioned above?? What hair conditions are you experiencing that you want me to write about next? Comment below!

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Curly Hair 102 – Dangers Lurking in our Products

It seems that in the past couple of years, being natural and embracing ones curls has become the “in” trend. I happen to think that us curly girls were just too darn tired to keep straightening our hair and too broke to keep paying someone else to do it. I know I personally haven’t straightened my hair, personally or professionally, in 7 years.

On top of embracing ones natural state, it seems that being conscientious of the types of products we use is also a part of everyday vocabulary now. We went from using whatever was on sale at the grocery store, to selectively “canceling” brands because of their chemical components.

Recently, I have come to learn that even in our most treasured and talked about lines, there are chemicals lurking that we need to know more about and stay away from if possible. Now, before you go on that soap box and tell me about how some of these chemical compounds already exist naturally and we consume them in other ways, I have to say while you are right, if I can avoid even 1% more of that formaldehyde or other carcinogen, I will.

So without further ado, lets cover the top 8 chemicals that you should avoid when purchasing your next leave-in conditioner, hair gel, or styling cream…

  1. Silicone – This is pretty obvious and I am sure you are tired of hearing about it but just to cover the basics, silicones are found in a lot of different forms. This is a form of plastic and yes, you have heard of silicone breast implants, so why would you put this in your hair? It has some benefits like producing shine and slip (translates to easy to comb through) but it also weighs down your hair and produces a film that prevents other products from helping your hair including water and oxygen.
    Types of silicones: When reading a label, look for a compound that typically ends in “-cone” like dimethicone, methicone, cyclomethicone or sometimes a combo item like: phenyl trimethicone or dimethicone copolyol
  2. Sulfates: So if you have used a silicone, and as I just mentioned, silicones prevent water from penetrating, then you need some even more abrasive -enter sulfates. This is the chemical that is used often in shampoos and creates that lathering and bubbly effect. It works by lifting the cuticle of the hair and stripping it of any product or natural oils which results in long-term dryness, brittleness, and even scalp irritation. You know where else you find sulfates? In your laundry detergent or dishwashing soap. Would you wash your hair with a Tide pod or Dawn?
    Then skip a shampoo that has any variation of sulfates including, but not limited to: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium cocoyl isoethionate, or
    disodium laureth sulfosuccinate. In other words, look for an ingredient that ends in “-ate”.
  3. Alcohol: I have to say that not all alcohols are bad, but think about the last time that you had a few too many drinks. How did you feel later on that night or the next day? Think beyond the headache to the dehydration. The same thing happens with your hair! Alcohols in hair products will help evaporate the natural oils in your hair leaving it dry and brittle overtime.
    Look for ingredients that end in “-ol” such as: ethanol alcohol, ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol alcohol. Even if the the “alcohol” word is not there, the base of the chemical is still an alcohol compound.
  4. Parabens: This is another hot discussion item but what exactly is a paraben? Parabens are chemicals that are added to extend the shelf life of a product. These are often also linked to cancer and serve as a harmful carcinogen.
    Look for ingredients that end in “-yl” like: methyl, propyl, butyl, or ethyl. These are also often overlooked or regarded as an alcohol.
  5. Urea: I know some of you read that as a bodily secretion of sorts but really it is another form of preservatives, like parabens, that extend the product’s shelf life. These types of chemicals are linked to skin irritation, flakiness, and even dermatitis. Worse yet is when this is aggravated through heat. When these types of chemicals are exposed to heat, which could be as little as your hair dryer when you diffuse, they break down to even more harmful chemicals such as formaldehyde.
    These are often easy to spot on an ingredients list: diazoldinyl urea or imidazolidinyl urea.
  6. Formaldehyde: I know when I first learned that some of my curly hair products had the same thing that is used when a person dies to embalm the body, I knew this was something I had to avoid. Formaldehyde is used for the same purpose as when it is used for a body – preservation. Yet another cheap ingredient like parabens or urea, this chemical has been known to cause cancer, heart palpitations, infections, and many other health conditions.
    You can find this on your ingredient list in many different ways including: formalin, formic aldehyde, methanediol, methanal, or methyl aldehyde.
  7. Mineral Oil: If you are Curly Girl Method (CGM) or even if you have followed me on IG or in earlier posts, you know that oil + curly hair = a great equation! BUT there are some oils that are actually damaging to your hair such as mineral oil. This is an inexpensive form of oil that does not live up to its name – it is not moisturizing and is often too heavy for hair and weighs the hair down so it is lifeless and greasy. It also causes a lot of build-up on the scalp. It may feel nice because it has a lot of slip but it will have a negative impact in the long run.
    While you will see “mineral oil” as its own ingredient, you may also see its sister compounds like lanolin or petroleum (yep, just like Vaseline).
  8. Perfume: We all want to smell good and usually are persuaded to buy products simply because it may remind us of homemade cookies, our tropical vacation, or what we project romance to smell like. However, putting on products that are full of perfumes is actually damaging to your hair for a few reasons. First off, many bases to perfumes is an alcohol, which as we already discussed, dries out the hair. Secondly, perfumes are often compounded to be concentrated in that 10oz container and if you have any skin sensitivity, you could experience scalp irritation, itchy/watery eyes, rash, dandruff, or other side effects very quickly.
    Typically the ingredient list will simply state “perfume” or “fragrance” in the list so if you can find something with natural scents, you are definitely better off.

So, that’s a long list but what prompted me to start researching and posting this is what I found in one product that I specifically used almost daily – DevaCurl Styling Cream

DevaCurl SUPERCREAM® Coconut Curl Styler

Ingredients:
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycerin, Hydroxpropyl Starch Phosphate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Laureth-4, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Panthenol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, Melissa Officinalis Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Wheat Starch, Propylene Glycol, Ceteareth-20, Disodium EDTA, Aminomethyl Propanol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Fragrance.

While I enjoyed the fragrance component (it reminded me of sitting on the beach in the Caribbean), I need to be careful with my sensitive skin. However worst yet is the urea, especially since I often diffuse my hair with the hair dryer. Knowing that this breaks down into formaldehyde and knowing that this could cause unwanted health defects, I have stopped using this altogether and have decided to no longer purchase DevaCurl products personally. Why? It doesn’t stop at the styling cream. The shampoos and conditioners also have harmful ingredients like the No-Poo Original Zero Lather Conditioning Cleanser has diazolidinyl urea and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate.

So moral of the story is that I am moving beyond DevaCurl for other brands that may have more organic and safe ingredients. And while I know I cannot avoid everything all of the time, if I can make one swap, and even save some money in the process, I will because my health is more important to me than perfect hair.

Have you heard about these ingredients before? Do you read the label of your hair care products before purchasing? Did it surprise you that DevaCurl had some less than ideal ingredients? Comment below and lets continue the conversation!

Hair Coloring FAIL!

When you have curly hair like I do, getting ANYTHING done to it is very time consuming and often way out of budget. So when I decided I wanted to try something new and lighten my hair, I researched any option I had and came after hours of hunting and millions of IG ads, I came across Madison Reed. Madison Reed is a “do-it-yourself but better” home hair coloring kit. It is not a box kit that you can buy at a grocery store or Ulta, but rather an online company with licensed stylists and colorists on call. They use healthy ingredients and I watched a multitude of YouTube videos including @biancareneetoday who also has curly hair and did their highlighting without damage. Since my hair was healthy and my old highlights lightened so much that they were almost white, I decided to take the assessment and give it a try -it’s only hair right?

After answering several questions, which are the same questions that my stylist would ask, I was presented with a brown that was supposed to be a lighter shade but would still match my overall color. I hesitated but I took the plunge. The kit was about $20 in total and there were multiple guides, videos, and like I said, colorists on standby. After about 3-5 days, my box arrived!

Once Saturday’s workout was complete, I washed my hair and prepped it for coloring. The following day, I started the coloring process. There was step-by-step instructions which I followed to a “T”. When I mixed the ingredients, I noticed the color was very dark but the experts knew what they were doing, right? I have to say that there was no smell which, in my small bathroom, was amazing. I was able to part my hair and color my whole head without running out and waited the time indicated in the instructions. I was so nervous but excited –something new and lighter to match my new Cali life while getting rid of my over done highlights from years past.

After what felt like forever, but was really only 30 minutes, I rinsed out my hair and immediately I knew something was wrong. My hair felt dry and brittle. I added the conditioner which helped a tiny amount and thought I just needed to add my products and it would be fine –or at least that’s what I told myself. Fast forward to the next day when it all finally dried and my hair was BLACK.

I freaked out. This is NOT what I wanted or expected. This is not the color I picked or was “expertly assigned” as per the website’s picture -this was literally black. After the tears were done, I immediately contacted Madison Reed for help and started to research any way to fix this complete flop!

Almost 48 hours later because of time zones and all that, I heard back from one of the experts and was told to buy the glaze and they’d send me a new color for free. Wait…buy another product? I made sure that Madison Reed had a good guarantee when I purchased the initial color because I know my hair is, well, it has a temper of its own. So when I was told to buy another product and then apply another color, I knew I was on my own to fix this.

I have to say though, that the customer service at Madison Reed is on point! They ended up refunding my original purchase after I declined the “fix” and apologized for any issues.

That is when I turned to home remedies, which I have to say actually work! Ever heard of the Vitamin C mixture to remove coloring? Neither did I till I frantically researched options which led me to CVS and purchased 100 tablets of vitamin C and Head&Shoulders shampoo. I crushed up 40 tablets of vitamin C and mixed in enough shampoo to make a thick gel-like consistency. I applied that to my hair and rubbed like there was no tomorrow. Slowly, slowly the color began to turn the soap-suds into a brown color and after 3 washes, my hair started to lighten.

Today, my highlights are returning and my hair looks more like dark chocolate than midnight black. However, my hair does not feel the same ever since the coloring. Could it be the color? Maybe. Could it be the vitamin C? Definitely doesn’t help as the vitamin C does dry the hair. Either way, I have been working diligently to resuscitate my curls with masks, deep conditioning, and gentle shampoo. And my lesson? Save a few bucks every month and get a REAL professional to do my hair coloring…at a salon…correctly.

So tell me … have you had an at home hair color horror story??